Potty Training Puppies Info

I live in Poplar Bluff, MO…

Check here:
http://mastiff.org/faq/breedref.mv

Lots of resources for breeders and rescue.

She’s four months old and going to the vet next as soon as I can make an appointment. I fed her a cup of puppy food and I will feed her in the morning. She seems veracious. Should I feed her more?

I have always had the best luck feeding per the directions on the bag. Different brands/qualities of dogfood should be fed in different amounts.

Your food bag will probably have feeding driection based on the weight of the puppy. A good appetite is a good thing. As long as your puppy is a good weight, you should be OK. If the dog is too thin, and you are already feeding as much as the bag says, increase the amount you feed your puppy accordingly. If you puppy is more active than most, she may, indeed, need more food. She will also need more food when she hits her growth spurts.

We just adopted a 7 month old female English Pointer mix. She is incredibly well-behaved but somewhat timid. She learns quickly but has no interest in going out on a leash. When we go for a walk we get about 50 yards and then she just stops and will not move. I don’t want to pull on her (it doesn’t work) but I would love her to be my walking companion. Also, she will not cross threshholds. I can only think her former owners had invisible fencing. No one I know has ever had this problem with a dog. Any advice?

That does sound like invisible fencing. Let her know that your the boss and you will not lead her into any danger. I know that it sound barbaric, but we used a "choke chain" on our two labs. Most people put these chains in the wrong place, they are meant to go in the soft spots right behind the ears and are not meant to hurt the dog. Whenever ours would start to pull us on the leash we would give them a quick tug and tell them "no pull". I don’t believe that we ever hurt them but we did get their attention and they no longer pull us. But by no means is she "un-trainable". She will probably take some patience and a lot of encouragement but whatever you decide, make sure that you stay consist ant. Give her lots of love too.

Good luck

Well they were just born. I think we are keeping a boy.

Schatzie (pronounced shot-see)

Schatzie is German for "Sweatheart" or "Little Dear One." I think it’s the cutest name for a German dog!

Hi Im getting a labrador retreiverpuppy soon. This puppys mother is black lab and her father is a chocolate lab. Does that still count as a purebreed dog?
What kindof paper work should I get? The breeder will give me AKC registered, and vet checked, these healthy puppies come with a 3 generation pedigree set of shots and dewormer, and a heath certificate. (They told me that I ahvet o pay 30bucks for AKC registerd paper)

http://lancasterpuppies.com/content/image-galleries/image/puppies-sale-lancaster-pa-all-breeds/black-lab-puppies-sale/ruby-fema
OR
http://lancasterpuppies.com/content/image-galleries/image/puppies-sale-lancaster-pa-all-breeds/chocolate-lab-puppies-sale/cindy-

I believe this is not a puppy mill because they only bred labs.
What is the OFD stuff?
It’s this dog. Does it seem like a reasonable price?
What are other things I should look at and consider?
THank you

It is still a purebred if the parents are different colors.

You should get the AKC paperwork alot with the vet records.

I dont’ know how to see the breeders page. I would like to see it.
$500 for a well bred purebred Lab is awful cheap. I would like to know if the parents have their hips OFA’d, and CERT for their eyes. Without those, I would not even consider the puppy.

The going rate for a purebred Lab from a reputable breeder would probably be closer to $1000. People who sell them for less save money by not doing these tests on their dogs.

Labs are very prone to hip dysplasia. Google it. It is a debiliating disease that can cost you a ton of money in the long run. While there is no way to guarantee your pup won’t develop it, you can drastically increase your odds by finding a reputable breeder that screens their dogs.

FYI- puppymills or bybers sometimes only breed one breed. There is much much more to consider than that.

Here are some great links to help you know what to look for in a breeder
http://www.woodhavenlabs.com/breeding/breeder.html

http://dogplay.com/GettingDog/checklist.html

Here is a great site with tons of info for Labs. The site was created by a very reputable breeder of Labs
http://www.woodhavenlabs.com/articles.html

I live in Melbourne, Australia (VICTORIA) and I am interested in buying a Labrador Retriever puppy. I have looked through the newspaper and online but can’t find any from REPUTABLE breeders with litters that will be ready soon (within the next few weeks).

I am trying to get a purebred puppy. Female - golden. My price range is a little limited ( $250 - $650 ).

I have looked at the 2 local RSPCA adoption centres for Lab (puppies) but couldn’t find one. The only one I found was an (overweight) 6-8 year old golden Labrador Retriever.

I would appreciate any answers I get and I would be willing to check out websites of yours, or someone you know, who breeds Labs.
Thanks

*** Reputable breeders only - parents must have hip/elbow scores, eye and heart certificate.

Start with these folks - it was the one Lab club I pulled up on a search. They can probably help put you in contact with someone in your area

http://www.salabclub.com.au/

Now if you can offer a wonderful forever home, many breeders will work with you and take payments. I would think though that $500-650 would get you a very nice pet puppy from a repuatble breeder.

Breeders like that very rarely advertise online or in newspapes. In fact in 43 years in dogs, I’m hardpressed to think of ANY who advertise in newpapers. General web searches just don’t really return the website of the really good breeders - the sites are mostly to boast about their dogs and they don’t put the money into web site developement and search engine optimazation studies. You have to actually type in their kennel name 99% of the time.

I live in Melbourne, Australia (VICTORIA) and I am interested in buying a Labrador Retriever puppy. I have looked through the newspaper and online but can’t find any from REPUTABLE breeders with litters that will be ready soon (within the next few weeks).

I am trying to get a purebred puppy. Female - golden. My price range is a little limited ( $250 - $650 ).

I have looked at the 2 local RSPCA adoption centres for Lab (puppies) but couldn’t find one. The only one I found was an (overweight) 6-8 year old golden Labrador Retriever.

I would appreciate any answers I get and I would be willing to check out websites of yours, or someone you know, who breeds Labs.
Thanks

*** Reputable breeders only - parents must have hip/elbow scores, eye and heart certificate.

Start with these folks - it was the one Lab club I pulled up on a search. They can probably help put you in contact with someone in your area

http://www.salabclub.com.au/

Now if you can offer a wonderful forever home, many breeders will work with you and take payments. I would think though that $500-650 would get you a very nice pet puppy from a repuatble breeder.

Breeders like that very rarely advertise online or in newspapes. In fact in 43 years in dogs, I’m hardpressed to think of ANY who advertise in newpapers. General web searches just don’t really return the website of the really good breeders - the sites are mostly to boast about their dogs and they don’t put the money into web site developement and search engine optimazation studies. You have to actually type in their kennel name 99% of the time.

Looking for dalmation puppy for sale in Illinois. Want to purchase by Christmas for my boyfriend. Please advise of breeders or parties with puppies in the Central Illinois area. Thanks.
To all you people who just want to be smart a s s e s please do not bother to answer. If you don’t have an answer why do you answer to begin with? This is something that my boyfriend has wanted for a long time, he has had 2 throughout his lifetime and they were all great loyal dogs. And if one of you smart a s s e s could give me that name of the rescue shelters overflowing with Dalmations that would be great too. Anyone else with serious anwers… Thanks for answering.

There is a dalmatian rescue in Dekalb the web sit is http://dalrescueillinois.net/

there is another site if there are any dalmatians listed
http://www.tradinpost.com/

http://www.doggies.com/Dalmatian/Illinois

I Hope this helps you in anyway because I listed all my ideas

Housetraining a puppy seems to be the most common nemesis of all dog owners. Left unsupervised, a puppy can spend months in a home without catching the slightest hint of what housetraining is all about.  And if over-supervised and harassed, he may become neurotic and overanxious.

A happy medium does exist, of course, but many pet owners seem unwilling or unable to make the necessary commitments to the tried and true methods established by professional dog trainers. In the long run, a few weeks of effort will result in a truly housetrained pup, with a minimum of effort and strain on both you and your pet.

Housetraining Rule Number 1: Confinement

There are several important factors to consider in housetraining.  The first of these factors is confinement in a relatively small area that has an easy-to-clean floor and is not isolated from the rest of the family (using a playpen is perfect). Far from being cruel as most dog owners complain, confinement reassures the young puppy and allows him to become completely familiar with the surroundings without being overwhelmed with the size or complexity of your entire home.

Confinement keeps little paws and playful teeth out of range of dangerous places, while ensuring that your dog is close to his papers, or the door to the yard, whenever the urge to use the bathroom comes over him. This means he is more likely to behave correctly than to have an accident, which results in lots of praise and affection from you.

Praise

And that is the second important factor in housetraining: praise. Your praise and approval are more important to your puppy than practically anything else in his life. A mere scowl out of anger can start him sulking in sadness while a pat on the head or a few kind words will set his tail wagging and put a big smile on his little face. Young puppies respond much more quickly and effectively to praise and encouragement than they do the physical correction. Therefore, we believe that there is no place for physical punishment for any puppy.

Consistency

Consistency is the third vital factor in housetraining. Consistency in schedule, in feeding habits, in praise and reward for proper behavior and in verbal reprimand when accidents occur, is of supreme importance. 

Scolding occasionally for accidents but ignoring others, feeding at irregular intervals, lack of praise for soiling on the dog’s papers or in the yard – all will only serve to confuse and discourage your puppy. So be consistent and have total awareness: your awareness of your puppy’s whereabouts, his needs and urges, and his signals informing you of what’s on his mind.

When initiating housetraining, always keep in mind that until a puppy is 7 months old, his control over excretory functions is extremely limited. At least once per hour, and possible more often, he will have to relieve himself.

These urges are even more pronounced after sleeping, eating, and playing. By keeping the puppy confined to a relatively small area lined with papers, you will assure that he does not have the opportunity to make a mistake and necessitate verbal reprimand. He will naturally seek the place furthest from his sleeping quarters to soil so that he may keep his own bed clean.

Therefore, take this cue and, after he naps, eats or plays, place him on his papers or outside in the yard. When your puppy soils where you have placed him, praise the dog immensely, but make it sincere. Unconvincing praise doesn’t fool anyone, even an eight week old puppy.

And as a side note, apartment dwellers and owners who are away at work all day are generally are more successful paper-training a puppy until his is old enough to have considerably control.

Keep Supervision Tight For The Free-Roaming Puppy

If the puppy is allowed to roam about other areas of the house, be sure  he is carefully supervised. Should he lower his head, sniff and begin to circle, be quick! Get him onto his papers or into the yard immediately. When he relieves himself, praise, and lots of it, is in order. However, if, through your fault, he has an accident, no spanking or rubbing his nose in it, please!

Such punishment does not fit the crime, being too degrading and encouraging such habits as stool eating (and thereby re-infestation with parasites). By all means show him what he has done, scold him and place him on the papers. But remember, the accident was your fault for not supervising him properly or not being aware of his warning signals, so go easy on him. Be sure that the soiled area is carefully cleaned, deodorized and disinfected as any remaining scent will surely prompt him to return to that very spot when the urge next hits him.

Housetrain Older Dogs The Same As You Would A Young Puppy

For the older dog, paper training is generally superfluous. Regular outings timed to coincide with his peak urgency periods (which, by the way, are the same as a young puppy’s: after meals, naps, and play periods) should accomplish training in short order. While confinement to a very small area is probably unnecessary, supervision and praise must never be forgotten. They are the magic “tricks” to housetraining any dog.

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An introduction to puppy potty training and getting your puppy house broken.

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